Theyve been at every venue,
each event, all the shuttle bus stops in Salt Lake and Park City. Without
fail theyve arrived earlier than the rest of us, knowing
they must be first to the gate of an Olympic competition or they
need not come at all. Unlike the official volunteers with
their designer uniforms, they wear grimy jackets, cheap knit caps,
crummy shoestheir only pieces of shiny new gear the cell
phones that link them to partners sitting behind rented tables
under street-corner tents. Theyre not here to watch
the athletes, or make international friends, or trade pins. Theyre
scalping tickets to the 2002 Olympic games.
In the 20-degree evening in downtown Salt Lake
City, with the temperature falling fast toward dark, I take my
place among the scalpers. I have two tickets to tonights
mens figure skating, and Im here to sell them before
the competition begins. Originally Id hoped to cheer
sentimental favorite Todd Eldredge as he tried for a medal in his
third Olympics. My daughter wanted to see Russian skaters
Alexei Yagudin and Evgeni Plushenko vie to be the first skater
to land the quadruple toe looptriple toe looptriple
toe loop combination in competition. But after four days
of adrenaline-pumping events, shuttle buses, security lines, and
jostling crowds, weve changed our plans. Weve
opted to catch a train in a few hours, and Im here to cut
my losses.
As I pull out the flashy blue tickets, I see
that, except for me, the unofficial salespeople on these street
corners are all men. They call Who needs tickets? and I
got tickets! as they subtly jockey for position alongside
the hordes of spectators streaming past with blankets, programs,
and travel mugs. Wearing my decades-old down jacket and pack
boots, I probably appear to fit in with these shabbily dressed
professionals, although in truth I have a closetful of good clothes
at home, spotless credit, and a steady job.
I stand opposite a black man holding a fistful
of Luge tickets for sale. He yells across the crowd, What
you got? I tell him, and he says, Man, youll
be lucky to give those away.
A tall, blowsy Australian with an ear to his
cell, agrees. Get rid of those fast and get the hell
home, mate. Its as cold as two bricks in the world
out here.
The crowd muscles by, purposefully ignoring
us as Ive ignored the throngs of ticket hawkers at previous
games. Most spectators have already bought their tickets. Others
are headed to the evening medals ceremony, where tickets are free
at local shops. Minutes pass as I call, Tickets for
sale. Figure skating tonight! Event tickets at cost! Most
people avoid eye contact with me, their faces chilly. Some
take time to assess me with narrow-eyed shrewdness, from my ski
cap all the way to my scuffed boots. Others ask what Im
charging and snort or shake their heads in disbelief when I quote
the official price I paid to the Olympic vendors.
The unbelievers are right, of courseprices
are exorbitantly high. Someone has to foot part of the bill
for the $2.7-billion-dollar 2002 games, with their elaborate rituals,
labyrinthine torch relay, and monumental new venues. But,
contrary to what the passersby think, Im not the one who
priced these tickets out of reach of everyman. Neither have
I upped the value to cover my own costs.
No takers still after fifteen minutes, half
an hour, then forty-five minutessoon figure skating is about
to begin. Luge man and the Australian were right. I
drop my price by half and in minutes sell one ticket to a family
man who unsuccessfully tries to talk me down even farther. Soon
another ticket goes to a fellow whos just driven non-stop
from Toronto. He dazedly quizzes me on where he is exactly
and what has happened over the past four days. Then he concludes
that hell attend the skating. Sure, why not,
eh? He pays me with the few American bills he has in
a wallet stuffed with Canadian cash.
Feeling
neither successful nor a failure, I sprint for my car four blocks
away. Before dark I parked in front of the mission on 2nd South
that provides shelter for the homeless. By now night has
snuck in, and the Jesus Saves sign is lit. People
with knapsacks and paper bags line up to go inside. Some
whove already settled upstairs watch the street from tiny,
dimly lit balconies. A few men hurriedly share a fast-food
dinner near a trash can, and I recognize the Luge man among them. He
calls to me, Hey, wherere you going? Home? I
tell him yes. He rubs his hands, feeling the subfreezing
night. Can I come with you? Knowing hes
probably not kidding, I laugh as though he is, wave goodnight,
and climb into my car.
Just
blocks north, merchandise and money flow like wedding champagne
at the biggest party in decades, entertaining visitors from around
the world. The visitors are seeing evidence of our nations
wealthsponsors tossing pins and flags from moving trucks,
music wired to every street corner, a different big-name band
each night. Theyre feeling the warmth and welcoming
attitude of the Utah people, a truly memorable aspect of the
2002 Olympic experience. What the visitors are not seeing,
Ill wager, is life south of the event barricades. Here
there are no new streetlights, no celebrities, no throngs of
well-dressed spectators. Here its only business as
usual, and its cold as two bricks in the world.
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